Seams in thin even coats
Start taping perimeter seams by laying down a thin bed of compound along
the seam using a 4-in. wide knife.
Press paper tape into the joint, and then wipe away the excess. When the
tape is dry, apply a second coat of compound with a 6-in. knife. Let this
coat dry and apply a coat on top of it.
When this is
dry, sand it lightly with the fine side of a dual-grit sanding sponge.
Apply one or two more coats on top of this using the 6-in. knife.
Joints that run parallel to the drywall sheet's long axis should be coated
to about 12 in. wide, but those that run perpendicular to the long axis
(on the ends of the sheets) need to be coated to about twice that because
drywall is not tapered at the ends as it is on the edges. This makes it
harder to hide the end joints, so you have to cover them with a very wide
seam that has an extremely shallow taper.
Your first pass
on joints may look a little rough. On subsequent passes, you can eliminate
ridges and other imperfections by reducing the compound on the knife to
just a small glob in the blade's center. There are other tricks. I like
a fairly stiff knife that I put a slight bend in the blade so that its
trailing edge rides slightly above the compound as you pull the knife
down the joint. And if you find the knife is leaving marks as it smoothes
the compound take the last stroke in the opposite direction of the one
before. If the first stroke was right to left, pull the last stroke left
with Wiring and Outlets
cables and pipes that run through wall and ceiling framing need protection
because they can be pierced by a drywall nail, creating a fire hazard
or a leak. The solution is simple. Install self-gripping steel protection
plates. Simply hammer them onto the studs.
To mark cutouts
for electrical boxes, measure to the outside of the box using the edge
of the adjacent drywall sheet as a reference point. Transfer
the measurements to the panel using the drywall square, (photo5) and cut
on the outside of the pencil lines with a drywall saw. Now nail the drywall
to the stud. If the cutout for the box isn't perfectly positioned and
it needs to be enlarged, pen it up slightly with a drywall rasp.
Inside and Outside Corners
Start work on
the outside corners by cutting metal corner bead to length with utility
snips. Then lightly hold it in position. Check that the bead is properly
aligned when viewed from both sides of the corner, and then nail one face
completely before nailing the second side.
Space the nails
12 to 16 inc. apart. For inside corners, spread compound on both surfaces
with a 4-in. wide drywall knife. Fold paper drywall tape in the center
and press it into the corner. Squeegee away the excess compound with an
inside corner knife.
Drywall From the Top Down
on the ceiling first, then the walls. Check the ceiling for bowed joists
using a 4-ft. level. Irregularities less than 1/8-or1/16-in.-thick cardboard.
Use the longest
sheet available to cover the surface. If the ceiling is 12 ft. long, there's
no sense in using an 8-ft. sheet.
You want as few seams to tape as possible.
With a helper,
lift the sheet against the ceiling and hold it across the framing using
a T-brace built ¾ in. shorter than the floor-to-ceiling height.
Use a drywall hatchet or hammer and bang in some ring-shank drywall nails,
dimpling the drywall paper above each. Place a nail at each joist along
the panel's edge, and space them at about 16-in. intervals in the panel's
center. To cut a sheet, use a drywall square to guide the utility knife
and score across the panel's face. Snap on the score line. Nick the backing
paper from the front, and then score all the way through from the back.
move to the walls. Apply a bead of construction adhesive on each stud
to reduce the chance that nailheads could break through the drywall finish
as the framing lumber dries. Lift the sheet to the top of the wall and
nail it in place.
Basics - All About Drywall
- Building codes
specify thickness and type of drywall, but you can use the following
as a rule of thumb. Always check your local code.
¼-in. - Covers cracks and is easy to bend around radiuses.
- Standard ½-in.
- Covers walls and ceilings framed on 16-in. centers.
- Standard 5/8-in.
- Covers walls and ceilings framed on 24-in. centers.
5/8-in. - Covers walls and ceilings in an attached garage or in the
½-in. - Serves as a tile backer on bathroom walls.
5/8-in. - Serves as a tile backer on bathroom ceilings.
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